1999 Delas Frères Côte-Rôtie Seigneur de Maugiron

The 1999 Cote Rotie Seigneur de Maugiron is brilliant. It boasts a black/purple color as well as sumptuous aromas of espresso, graphite, violets, and blackberry/cassis fruit. This is underlined by abundant power, good acidity for definition as well as freshness, and a superb, pure finish. This exceptional Cote Rotie requires 4-5 years of cellaring. Anticipated maturity: 2005-2018. Beginning with the 1997 vintage, this firm has made remarkable progress with their Cote Rotie program. The cuvaison lasts twenty days, and Jacques Granges believes in several pigeages (punching down) a day, with pump overs as well. This is a good commercial example. The significant difference in quality between the outstanding 1999 northern Rhone vintage and the above average yet essentially correct 2000 is dramatically evidenced in Delas's wines. The 2000 red offerings reveal charming ripeness, but also the vintage's softness, lightness, and lack of depth. Importer: Maison Marques et Domaines, Oakland, CA; tel. (510) 286-2000.