1990 Château Latour à Pomerol

The 1990 Latour à Pomerol epitomizes everything one could wish for in a mature Pomerol, but without paying a king’s ransom. Despite the highly regarded growing season, I approach this with modest expectations because these were not halcyon days for the estate. Nevertheless, this bottle had a good fill and had come from a cool, damp cellar out in the West Country. Showing just a little bricking on the rim, the bouquet soars from the glass with wanton abandon: black plum, hickory, sage and shavings of black truffles, firmly into its secondary stage but patently having lost none of its vigor. It evolves over the next 90 minutes while the aromatics coalesce and gain intensity. The palate does not disappoint, either. It articulates the warmth of that summer yet is not dictated by it. The terroir comes through with glycerin-rich black fruit, fennel, black truffle, tobacco and just a little dried blood towards the finish. The 1990 is quite luscious in texture and yet fresh as a daisy. I pat myself on the back for introducing my fellow diner and Bordeaux neophyte to such a delicious wine. If you own bottles, don’t hesitate to uncork this Pomerol right now. Tasted at Noble Rot Mayfair.