2018 Pichon Comtesse Réserve

The second wine of the Château, the 2018 Pichon Comtesse Reserve checks in as 53% Cabernet Sauvignon and 42% Merlot, with the balance Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc. Terrific classic Pauillac notes of blackcurrants, lead pencil shavings, leafy tobacco, and chocolate define this beauty, and it's medium to full-bodied, with a layered, balanced, pure character, present yet ripe tannins, and a great finish. As I wrote last year, it tastes more like a Grand Vin than a second wine. The larger Merlot component shows here compared to its more Cabernet Sauvignon-dominated big brother, and it's a much more plush, silky, sexy wine that already offers loads of pleasure. It's going to evolve for two decades and is well worth seeking out.

My feeling about the 2018 Réserve de la Comtesse is pretty much the same as it was when I first tasted it en primeur. It is an attractive, gracious wine with plenty of immediacy and appeal, but not the depth of some previous editions. I imagine that mostly reflects the significant presence of young vine fruit here and the uneven quality of the growing season and vintage. I would prefer to drink the 2018 over the next decade or so. (AG)