1988 Château Lafleur

The 1988 Lafleur was last tasted in 2012 at the Attersee tasting conducted just before publishing my Pomerol tome. I had forgotten how well this vintage showed at the time and deeply impressed how well it performs after almost three decades. There is now just a little ageing on the rim but the core remains a healthy dark purple color. The bouquet is just wonderful, armed with gorgeous black fruit, tobacco and a hint of liquorish, and a distant touch of Japanese green tea. The palate is medium-bodied but is endowed with considerable density in context of the vintage. There is much more matière here compared to the 1988 Petrus. It is not quite as rigid as it was five years ago and this bottle demonstrates a precocious, almost mellifluous finish that is more like a 1990 than 1988. Outstanding. Tasted at the “International Wine & Business” Lafleur dinner at Ten Trinity, London.

Magnum Very dark crimson. Lighter nose than 1989. Lots of toasty minerality. A little lower key than the 1989. Spindly in comparison but in itself a very creditable mouthful. Firm and richly Pomerol. Actually a lovely wine if you were to encounter it in isolation. Very beautifully built. Late vintage picked early October. Arguably more subtle than 1989. From 1987 they started to sort the grapes and throw out those that were less successful. (JR)

50% Cabernet Franc, 50% Merlot. From The Purple Notebook – Lafleur Dinner at The Groucho Club organised by Armit. Very, very deep crimson. Not the immediate sweetness of the 1989 on the nose. Great deep colour – looks more youthful (though both are deep, deep crimson). Great density and sweetness. Very, very fine but not aggressive tannins. Slightly drier finish than the 1989 but luscious for a 1988. (JR)