2009 Dönnhoff Norheimer Dellchen Riesling Trocken Grosses Gewachs
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Tasting notes
Donnhoff's 2009 Norheimer Dellchen Riesling Grosses Gewachs evinces distilled mirabelle and purple plum; shrimp shell reduction; sea breeze; peat; and forest floor, in an aromatic display of head-scratching intrigue and complexity. All of these aromatic complications reveal their counterparts on a palate of surprisingly lush fresh-fruitedness. The sense of lift, vibrancy, and focus are striking for a wine of 13% alcohol and the iodine, salt, and shrimp shell mineral aspects render the finish compulsively saliva- and next sip-inducing. I expect this to perform brilliantly for another 12-15 years. "In a great vintage with good weather this prolonged," remarks Helmut Donnhoff of 2009, only half in humor, "the only time limit to harvest is that set by the wild boar." And most of the excitement here this year - including the remarkable range of Spatlesen and the botrytis selections - was generated from a single week's picking in early November. "It's a year of the naked wine," adds Donnhoff, pointing to what he perceives as the stark portrayal of vineyard typicity that runs through his entire 2009 collection. His recent arrangement with the new Gut Hermannsberg (whose origins and inaugural vintage are canvassed elsewhere in this report) has taken Schlossbockelheimer Kupfergrube out of Helmut Donnhoff's line-up, while he has roughly doubled the surface area in the Hermannshohle under his control (to nearly 10 acres, or roughly half the Einzellage). The suggested retail prices I received from Donnhoff's importer represented significant price reductions vis-a-vis the last two years - and prices on the estate's private customer list have remained virtually unchanged for several years - adding yet another reason to seek them out. "I want to offer my customers good value," remarks Donnhoff with, in my view, considerable understatement, "and I'm proud of the fact that nobody in the trade who has bought from me has lost money reselling my wine." Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300
Critic scores
Jancis Robinson MW
David Schildknecht, Wine Advocate
More reviews and scores
Yellow fruit aromas straining at the leash and not to be contained by herbaceous notes of fermentation for much longer. Not tempted by the exotic ways, the expression of fruit is clearly local – ripe yellow plums and apricots. A touch spirity, but with the crystallinity of a perfectly defined eaux-de-vie rather than the power of a cognac. The balance is so harmonious that it’s almost inadequate to mention the separate parameters of acidity, fruit, body and minerality. Its great concentration is only surpassed by its elegance and finesse. (MS)