2008 Poderi Aldo Conterno Barolo Colonnello

The 2008 Barolo Colonnello is super impressive. It shows gorgeous richness and depth in its focused, energetic fruit. Sweet red berries, flowers and spices are woven together beautifully in the 2008 Colonnello. The elegant side of Barolo comes through, but with an extra degree of muscle. The oak, sometimes noticeable in this bottling, is very well integrated. Floral notes are woven throughout the finish. The Colonnello often gives the impression of being early to mature relative to the estate's other Baroli, but the 2008 is surprisingly powerful and structured.

The 2008 Barolo Colonnello is impressive. It shows gorgeous richness and depth in its focused, energetic fruit. Sweet red berries, flowers and spices are woven together beautifully in the 2008 Colonnello. The elegant side of Barolo comes through, but with an extra degree of muscle. The oak, sometimes noticeable in this bottling, is very well-integrated. Floral notes are woven throughout the finish. The Colonnello often gives the impression of being early to mature relative to the estate’s other Baroli, but the 2008 is surprisingly powerful and structured. Anticipated maturity: 2018-2033. My tasting at Aldo Conterno was one of the highlights of my recent trip to Piemonte. The 2008s are super-classic wines that will thrill Barolo lovers. The harvest took place at the end of October, quite late by modern-day standards. The Conterno brothers continue to lengthen macerations. In 2008 the Granbussia saw 40-45 days of skin contact, the longest ever. Speaking of Granbussia, Conterno has cut production on their flagship wine by a whopping two-thirds in order to bottle only the best juice under their top label. This also frees up juice for the Romirasco bottling, which is now a permanent part of the lineup, rather than a wine that is only made when there is no Granbussia, which was the case until just a few years ago. The unexpected success of the Romirasco bottling is one of the many positive things that have taken place at Aldo Conterno recently. The Conterno family embodies so many of the human values that make Piemonte such a special place. It’s great to see them back at the top of their game. Importer: Massanois Imports, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 470-6769

(from vines averaging 40 to 45 years of age): Good red-ruby. Enticing perfume of cassis, black cherry, sage, eucalyptus and pungent minerality. Rich, suave, deep and juicy, in the firm, vibrant style of the year. Youthfully tight, but the long, floral finish suggests that this will be a beauty with several years of bottle aging. From the last piece of Bussia before the village of Barolo. The sandy, manganese-rich soil typically yields a more feminine style. This reminded me a bit of a 2005.