2009 Peter Michael Chardonnay Cuvée Indigene

The 2009 Chardonnay Cuvee Indigene is a totally seamless wine graced with endless layers of apricots, peaches, white flowers and spices, all of which come together beautifully in the glass. The substantial weight of the old Wente clones blast through on the fat, creamy finish. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2021. I tasted a large number of wines at Peter Michael. Overall, the 2009 reds made the most positive impression on this visit. The 2009 Chardonnays are very strong. I am less enamored with the 2010 Chardonnays, as they clearly show the ill-effects of a challenging growing season, which at Peter Michael yielded very concentrated whites with slightly higher than normal alcohol levels and an element of heaviness that is out of character. Winemaker Nick Morlet describes 2010 as a difficult year. Bud break was a full month late. High winds and rain during the flowering resulted in high amounts of shatter and yields that are dramatically lower than normal. Morlet describes 2009 as a vintage where everything ripened quickly and at the same time. This lineup includes several wines that are being released for the first time, including a trio of Pinot Noirs from estate-owned coastal vineyards planted in 2006 and 2007. It will be fascinating to see how those wines develop as the vines acquire age. The newest wine in the ever-expanding Peter Michael stable is a new Cabernet Sauvignon from the former Showket vineyard that will make its debut with the 2011 vintage and that will be called Le Chevalier. I hope to taste it soon. I tasted the 2010 Chardonnays and Pinots from barrel. Those wines were scheduled to be bottled in February 2012. The 2009 Chardonnays and Pinots were bottled in late January/early February 2011. Tel. (800) 354-4459; www.petermichaelwinery.com

Greenish gold. Pungent aromas of dried pear, lemon pith, saffron and smoky lees, with slow-building minerality and a touch of peat. Densely packed but energetic, offering lively orchard and citrus fruit flavors and an exotic floral quality. The peaty note resonates strongly on the finish, which hangs on with impressive tenacity. For all its power, this chardonnay conveys a sense of weightlessness.