2010 Turley Zinfandel Fredericks Vineyard

The 2010 Zinfandel Fredericks Vineyard, from Monte Rosso, explodes from the glass with a heady array of rich, sensual aromas and flavors. Smoke, tar, grilled herbs, licorice and blue/black fruits all come to life in this vivid, arresting Zinfandel. Firm mountain tannins provide the backdrop in a powerful, authoritative wine bursting with class and sheer pedigree. This is a fabulous showing from Larry Turley and his team. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2025. This is a thrilling set of wines from Larry Turley, Ehren Jordan and Tegan Passalacqua. Tasting this wide a range of 2010 and 2011 Zinfandels and Petite Syrahs is like taking a master class in California terroir. The house style favors an expression of Zinfandel and Petite Syrah built on aromatic intensity and elegance, which Jordan credits to gentle extractions. At times, the wines come across as quite Burgundian in the way they express richness but not excess heaviness. Over the last few years, the wines have become a little more laid-back and less overtly ripe, which is a net positive given that the starting point for all of these wines is fruit of exceptional quality. The Petite Syrahs in particular are noteworthy because they are among the few wines that find the elegance Petite Syrah is capable of, while avoiding the massive tannins that are so typical elsewhere. The 2010s are strong across the board, although Turley did not bottle a few of their wines from sites that got scorched by the heat spikes, which includes the Highway 101 and Zampatti. The 2011s are more variable, as befits a vintage that had much less favorable conditions overall. Tel. (707) 963-0940

(15.3% alcohol; from a 1937 planting at 1,200 feet): Good saturated ruby. Lively aromas of blackberry, minerals and licorice lifted by a floral nuance. Tactile, uncompromisingly dry and penetrating, conveying a strong impression of dry extract. The intense black fruit and pepper flavors outlast the wine's firm tannins. Extremely young, intriguing zinfandel in need of bottle aging.