2004 Glaetzer Shiraz The Bishop

(from 40-to-80-year-old vines, young by the standards of this producer) Saturated violet. Inky, primal blackberry, cassis and cherry pit on the nose. Powerful and dense, with a structured impression of dark cherry, candied plum and sweet tobacco. This has a serious foundation of concentrated dark fruits and tannins, but there's also impressive sweetness. Finishes weighty, sweet and long, with a note of bitter chocolate. One for the cellar.

The earlier-maturing vats of unirrigated fruit from 40 to 80 year-old vines, largely from Ebenezer in the north west of the Barossa Valley. Hint of damson-like acidity on the nose and then wonderfully broad notes of pepper and chocolate on the palate. Very clean and fresh. Just a slight hole in the middle. Pretty good buy – and much more lifted, concentrated and vital than the average Barossa Shiraz. The wine is called after Ben’s mother’s maiden name. (JR)

The 2004 Bishop (100% Shiraz aged 14 months in both hogsheads and small barrels) is fashioned from some of Ben Glaetzer’s “younger” vines (only 40-80 years old). A spicy, peppery, earthy, cherry, blackberry, and licorice-scented bouquet is turbo-charged, soaring from the glass. This full-bodied, savory, heady, rich wine boasts impressive balance, concentration, and overall mouthfeel. One of the stars in the Epicurean portfolio, the young Ben Glaetzer is establishing a reputation for high quality in South Australia, not only for the wines from his home winery, but also for his brilliant efforts under the Amon Ra and Mitolo labels. These are small volume, artisinal efforts that capture the pure essence of old vine Barossa Shiraz and Grenache. This 2004 was tasted just prior to bottling. Importer: Benjamin Hammerschlag, Epicurean Wines, Seattle, WA; tel. (206) 923-1376