2009 Donelan Venus

Readers looking for low alcohol offerings will love the 2009 Venus, a blend of 90% Roussanne and 10% Viognier that tips the scales at 12.3% alcohol. One would never believe that based on the intensity of flavor. Most of the fruit comes from a vineyard I adore for its Sauvignon, but I wasn’t aware it included some Roussanne, the Dry Stack Vineyard in Bennett Valley southeast of Santa Rosa. The 2009 Venus exhibits crisp, fresh, delicate but impressively intense notes of lychee nuts, caramelized citrus, spring flowers, fresh pears and honeysuckle. Medium-bodied with lively acidity as well as an exotic perfume and a dry, zesty style, I would recommend drinking it on the early side because of its exceptional aromatics. It should last 2-3 years. (Not yet released) This is a fascinating group of wines from extremely cool climate Sonoma sites made by proprietor Joe Donelan and his winemaker, Tyler Thomas. They have produced an exceptionally elegant portfolio of 2009s that is true to the character of this cooler than normal vintage. This winery, which was originally known as Pax Cellars, has always produced remarkable Syrahs and the early vintages are aging fabulously well. Tel. (707) 591-0782; Fax (707) 591-0784