2004 Domenico Clerico Barolo Per Cristina
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Tasting notes
The 2004 Barolo Percristina is a bit more resolved than the Ciabot, yet, it, too, packs a serious punch. At the same time, the differences in pedigree between Ginestra and Mosconi are now quite evident as these two wines have taken slightly divergent paths. The Percristina is more marked by French oak, so the fruit is a bit less fresh and the wine is ever so slightly more evolved. In any other context, the 2004 Percristina would be dazzling. Here, it does play second fiddle, but not by much. A blast of mocha, raspberry jam, cinnamon and dried flowers hits the palate on the explosive finish.
Critic scores
Antonio Galloni, Vinous
Stephen Tanzer, Vinous
More reviews and scores
The 2004 Barolo Percristina sweeps across the palate with masses of silky, dense fruit framed by firm, yet almost impossibly elegant tannins. This is an utterly captivating Barolo for its sheer power, richness and opulence. Despite the wine's size, there is plenty of detail and nuance to explore in this utterly sensual, captivating Percristina. Readers lucky enough to find the 2004 Percristina should not hesitate, it is superb!
The 2004 Barolo Percristina sweeps across the palate with masses of silky, dense fruit framed by firm, yet almost impossibly elegant tannins. This is an utterly captivating Barolo for its sheer power, richness and opulence. Despite the wine’s size, there is plenty of detail and nuance to explore in this utterly sensual, captivating Percristina. Readers lucky enough to find the 2004 Percristina should not hesitate, it is superb! Anticipated maturity: 2014-2029. It’s great to see Domenico Clerico doing better after what has been a very difficult struggle with illness. My recent tasting with Clerico was amazing, as I had a chance to survey all of his Barolos in verticals covering vintages 2004 through 2008, which provided quite a bit of perspective on the relative qualities of this series of important vintages. I have done similar tastings here once – sometimes twice – a year for many years, and have always needed a bit of a break afterwards, as Clerico’s wines are massively tannic and structured when young, which, when coupled with Monforte’s trademark acidity, can tire the palate. Not this time. What has changed? For starters, the move toward longer fermentations/macerations and the reduction in the use of French oak have begun to yield wines of incomparable finesse and elegance. Tasting the vintages side by side, it is apparent that 2004 – as great as those wines are – represents the end of an era at Clerico. The 2005s signal a move towards a more elegant style (much of that is due to the vintage itself, rather than to changes in winemaking) but it is the 2006s that show the first true results of the new approach, and the wines are simply breathtaking. Clerico’s 2007s, however, may be even better as they are shaping up to be profound, utterly mind-bending Barolos. And as for the 2008s, they are still young, but are so promising I can hardly wait to taste them again. For readers who are curious, the 2004s here are superb but are shutting down rapidly in bottle. The 2005s continue to put on weight, yet they lack the sheer stuffing and depth of the 2006s. The 2007s are rich, sensual, perfumed and utterly thrilling, while the 2008 are a touch more transparent and classic. Watching these wines evolve over the coming years will be fascinating. Sadly, long-time cellarmaster Massimo Conterno recently left the winery after spending nearly his entire career at Clerico’s side. Conterno is like a son to Clerico and his departure remains a painful loss. Still, change is often invigorating, and I can only hope that will be the case here as well. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including: de Grazia Imports; tel. (417) 732-4200; Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; (516) 677-9300, Estate Wines Ltd., San Rafael CA; (415) 492-9411, Giuliana Imports, Boulder CO; (303) 547-6343, Robert Houde Wines, Bensenville IL; (630) 422-1119
Good deep red. Knockout nose combines red fruits, rose petal, brown spices and camphor, with a slight medicinal reserve. Pure, silky and sweet, offering incredible subtle intensity of flavor. This coats every millimeter of the palate without leaving any impression of weight, thanks to a steely spine that gives it great energy and snap. Wonderfully juicy, imploded wine with a broad, suave, extremely long finish. The locals prize the 2001 version of this wine (rated 95+?), but I give the edge to this vintage for its sheer verve.