1975 Dom Pérignon P3

Following the Œnothèque, the 1975 Dom Pérignon P3 has a pretty tall order. Painfully – almost shockingly austere – the P3 bristles with energy and tension. Readers lucky enough to own it will want to wait at least five years. Even after several hours of air, the 1975 P3 remains wound up and tense, but with a sense of energy that is likely to literally explode with a bit more time in bottle.

The 1975 Dom Pérignon P3 was served alongside the original release and the 1975 Œnothèque, prompting a number of questions. It is so primal, displaying barely any evolution considering that it is 50 years old, as if it was held in suspension prior to disgorgement. The colour is completely different to the aforementioned pair (as you would expect) and it is, to borrow Antonio Galloni's vernacular, "shockingly austere" on the nose. The palate is tight, malic and penetrative in style, like a young Salon in some ways. With all three side by side, I must admit that if I had to drink one, it would be either the original release or the Œnothèque. Others at the tasting, however, were totally bowled over by the P3. I suppose the question is, do you assess quality based on what the P3 might taste like in 20 or 30 years' time, or has it denied the taster the pleasure of secondary aromas and flavours? There is no correct answer—it depends on your predilection. My drinking window suggests what I would do! Tasted at Jordi's 50th birthday at Nando's.