1947 Château Calon-Ségur

Magnum. Made the year before Madame Capbern Gasqueton married into the family that owns Calon Ségur, and without the aid of new oak in these post-war years, this was a marvel. Still very very deep crimson, but with considerably evolution at the rim, the wine smelt arrestingly of violets and pepper. There was some leather and prunes and absolutely no reticence. While the wine is definitely evolved, it is also so brawny on the palate as to be almost rude. There are super-ripe flavours from this great, ripe vintage. Very sumptuous and grainy – still some tannins even – the wine yielded up some licorice towards the end of its considerable life in the glass. The wine was amazingly fresh and lively for a vintage as marked by heat and ripeness as 1947. A triumph and full vindication of the terroir. (JR)