2018 Bernard Moreau Chevalier Montrachet

The 2018 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru, which comprises three barrels this year, has an expressive bouquet of crushed stone mixed with Granny Smith apples and fleeting hints of white peach. The palate is supremely well balanced, delivering superb weight and penetration; the intense flavors of orange peel and sour lemon dovetail into discreet passion fruit and pawpaw notes toward the finish. Of course, there is outstanding mineralité throughout this Grand Cru. An awesome Chevalier-Montrachet.

Wafting from the glass with a lovely bouquet of citrus oil, orange blossom, white flowers and pastry cream, Moreau's 2018 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru is full-bodied, satiny and layered, with a deep and multidimensional core, lively acids and a long, chalky finish. Whereas the Bâtard is purchased as grapes, Alex Moreau received the Chevalier in must, and he's done a terrific job of the vinification and élevage.

He barters juice with another producer to get this. 2010 was the first vintage. Two 350-litre barrels and one is new. Barrel sample. More obvious oak spice here than on the premiers crus. And on the palate too there is smart oak in spice, oatmeal and clementine. Class act. A touch of smoky reduction and fabulously bright citrus to fill out the oak. Couldn’t be anything but grand cru burgundy. Great length and so elegant. Richness of the vintage but it is Chevalier. Lots of dry extract, explains Alex Moreau. (JH)