2019 Hyde de Villaine Chardonnay Hyde Vineyard
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Tasting notes
Wet conditions in the spring, with exceptional weather in the summer; heavy fog in the mornings followed by warm, sunny days. Mid gold. Edgy greenness on the nose. Refined and elegant. Not a trace of oak! Great balance. But ready! (JR)
Critic scores
James Suckling
Antonio Galloni, Vinous
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The 2019 Chardonnay comes from vines in the Hyde Vineyard that are 25-40 years old and planted to Wente (60%) and Calera (40%) selections. Aged in about 15% new French oak, the nose is perfumed and pure, with scents of quince, apricot, beeswax, river stone and citrus blossoms. The palate offers a compelling dynamic of satiny, expansive fruits and fresh, focused acidity, and it has a long, nuanced finish. It will continue to unwind in bottle over the next 2-3 years and gain savory complexity over the next decade.
Honeysuckle, oyster-shell and apple-pie aromas. Pears and lime sherbet, too. Flinty. Full-bodied, layered and integrated with fine phenolics. Some matchbox character comes through. Stemmy and spicy at the end from whole-cluster pressing. Wente and Calera clones. Drink or hold.
The 2019 Chardonnay Hyde Vineyard is bright and focused. This is an especially taut expression of Hyde, where most Chardonnays are richer. I would be shocked if anyone picks earlier here. Bright floral and citrus nuances all run through this nervy, taut Chardonnay. A touch of reduction lingers on the finish. I would prefer to see a bit more flesh, but this is tasty just the same.