1980 Château d'Yquem

The 1980 Yquem comes from a rather derided and ignored vintage for Sauternes. Still, as usual, Yquem proves it can turn into a delicious Sauternes in the most unbenevolent of seasons. Yes, it does miss a bit of vitality on the nose, but it opens nicely with linseed and mandarin notes. There's not a great deal of botrytis, so it's not amazingly complex. The palate is well-balanced, and unlike the previous half-bottle tasting, the acidity seems better here, leading to a slightly viscous, walnut-tinged finish that delivers satisfying tension. Tasted at the Lia's Wings/book dinner at Medlar restaurant.

A few years ago, I bought a small cache of 1980 Yquem in halves. It had been a cool season and picking did not commence until 20 October, an easterly in November belatedly concentrating the berries. My remaining bottle echoes previous encounters, a slightly smudged, syrupy nose with fig and dried honey. The palate is well balanced if just missing a little acidity, with a nutty, slightly sharp finish. To be honest, a full 750ml bottle might show better, but this indicates that it might be drying out.

This year is a perfect example of a vintage that was much better for the sweet wines of Barsac and Sauternes than it was for the red wines. Yquem produced its greatest wine since the twin titans of 1975 and 1976. Medium golden, with a big, opulent, honeyed, oaky, flowery, tropical fruit bouquet, this wine is rich and concentrated, has very good acidity, a lot of botrytis, and a stunning finish. It is a great success, and it continues to evolve at a snail's pace. Anticipated maturity: Now-2035. Last tasted, 12/90.