1998 Giuseppe Mascarello e Figlio Barolo Monprivato

The 1998 Monprivato from Giuseppe Mascarello perfectly embodies the quality of the vintage. This is a relatively slender, accessible Monprivato, yet all of the elements are perfectly in balance. The sweet aromatics meld seamlessly into a soft palate of fruit framed by ripe, silky tannins. The 1998 is a great introduction to Monprivato, and is one of the more beautiful, harmonious and accessible wines of the vintage. Today, the 1998 does not appear to be built for the long haul, but I wouldn't be entirely surprised if I am underestimating the wine's potential longevity given how gracefully wines of lesser vintages have aged.

In previous tastings the 1998 Barolo Monprivato has always conveyed a slightly evolved quality in its color and flavors and I feared it was on a fast aging curve. Then the unthinkable happened. Although I have learned over the years that the evolution of Monprivato is virtually impossible to predict, I was stunned to see how youthful this wine has become with a few years of bottle age, as unlikely as that may sound. It comes across as quite fresh, with a very classic expression of Monprivato in its floral nose, vibrant red fruit and medium bodied, open-knit personality. While the 1998 doesn't possess the structure or complexity of the very finest vintages it also won't require years of cellaring before reaching its peak and is an excellent choice for mid-term consumption and for those who want to explore Monprivato without waiting years for a bottle to reach maturity.

1998 Barolo Monprivato—Dark red. Very floral nose with notes of tobacco. Deeper, darker and denser than the 1999, with dark red/almost black fruit flavors, hints of cherries in liqueur, and a riper lusher personality than the 1999. Like so many 1998s, this is showing beautifully right now. A terrific effort.