2020 Bibi Graetz Testamatta

Dusty, floral and lifted with flinty crushed stone, peppery herbs and tart raspberry, the 2020 Rosso Testamatta makes itself known in the glass. This is finessed and pure in style, combining bright acidity and minerals with wild strawberry fruit, all carried across seamlessly silky textures. While structured, the 2020 leaves the palate completely refreshed as a web of fine-grained tannins frames pretty rose and sweet spice nuances. What a darling. I expect that bottle age will bring more flesh to the palate, but even without it, the 2020 Testamatta, a varietal Sangiovese, is gorgeous.

Scorched earth and pure sun-ripened fruit are at the forefront of the 2020 Testamatta, with ripe red cherry, tarragon, and toasted cedar. Medium bodied, with a mineral and lifted texture, it offers fine tannins and a citrus tinged finish. A razor edge of acidity drives the wine forward and creates a linear feel. It will certainly benefit for more time in bottle to ease into its full potential and can be enjoyed over the next 15 or so years. Located in Fiesole, Bibi Graetz founded his eponymous estate in 2000. All the red wines are entirely produced from Sangiovese and offer the wonderfully polished style of the region, which is why I have included them here as a stepping stone for what is to come with my next report on Chianti.

Harvested 24 September to 15 October. 100% Sangiovese.  Mid-ruby colour with a strong note of red flowers together with a hint of balsamic vinegar and earthy forest fruits. The palate is lined with sour-cherry fruit and the grip of Sangiovese. Sandy and firm in texture despite the polished fruit. This blends modern refinement and Tuscan typicality. (TP)