1988 Château La Mission Haut-Brion

A somewhat underrated vintage for this estate, and one that is drinking very well today, the 1988 La Mission Haut-Brion offers up classic aromas of dark berry fruit, singed underbrush, cigar ash and cedar, followed by a medium to full-bodied, deep and layered palate with bright acids and largely melted tannins. A decade ago, this was still quite tightly wound, but as it softens with age, it is revealing more volume and plenitude than one might have anticipated.

The 1988 La Mission Haut-Brion is a vintage that I have not encountered for ten years. Now at 30 years old it has a charming bouquet with scents of tobacco and cigar box infusing the black fruit, just as it did a decade ago. It is not powerful but undeniably very refined. The palate is medium-bodied with leafy black fruit infused with bay leaf, clove and black tea. Yes, it is a relatively austere La Mission compared to the succeeding two vintages, but there is a sense of effortlessness about this wine that makes you fall in love. Maybe not quite as vigorous as it was before, but you would still polish off a bottle in no time at all. Tasted at the château.

Dark crimson with ruby rim. Lovely mellow, very slightly faded nose but hugely complex and enjoyable. Then on the palate rather pronounced acidity and dry tannins – very 1988! Dry and dusty. Will probably always be a bit painful to drink! But actually in the glass it opened out and smoothed itself. (JR)