2018 Domaine Saint-Préfert Châteauneuf-du-Pape

Vivid ruby-red. Musky, spice-tinged red fruit, floral and herb qualities on the expressive nose. Sappy and penetrating on the palate, offering bitter cherry and raspberry flavors that turn sweeter as the wine opens up. The floral note recurs on a long, smooth finish shaped by well-judged tannins.

Darkly coloured, this has an elegant, harmonious, vinous aromatic display of liquorice, lilies and blood. Full-bodied, but reined in, without too much fat on the tongue underpinned by a deep, tight tannic weave and piercing acidity. This has genuine depth and intensity and will take on complexity in time. Considerably more textural depth than most of its peers in this vintage. You could drink it now, but hold until 2026 if you can. Fermented and aged in concrete. (Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2018 in bottle: the top 50 wines)

85% Grenache, 5% Cinsault, 5% Syrah, 5% Mourvèdre. Big and juicy in terms of fruit on the nose, and a jammy richness on the palate. Thickly textured. Velvety though – the tannins are really smooth and succulent. There’s a floral element too, and, despite the volume, there is lots of drinkability here. Dark chocolate and liquorice on the finish. A big but digestible style. (RH)