1989 Château Cos d'Estournel
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Tasting notes
Fragrant floral notes, the most muscular of the two 1989s, with plenty of power. Cos is known for its exoticism, and a hot year like 1989 helps to draw ou that side of things, with fruitcake, olive tapenade, fennel and black pepper spices, and a smoky caramel edge to the finish. Plenty of St Estèphe signature, and a showcase for how Cabernet Sauvignon ages so slowly on these gravel-clay soils on the borders of Pauillac. Bruno Prats was owner at the time, as we are here a full 11 years before the arrival of Michel Reybier. Likely to have been over 50hl/h yield, as this was an extremely abundant years - and provided the highest natural (with no chaptilisation, which was common at the time) alcohol on record at the time. 100% new oak. There is a youthful feel to this Cos, but it is less nuanced than the Pavie (I would suggest choosing the 1990 Cos if given the choice between the two because, although not tasted here, I have found it to be a more consistent). Still plenty of life ahead, when it may gain extra complexity - never count these out.
Critic scores
Wine Spectator
Robert Parker
More reviews and scores
The 1989 Cos d’Estournel has a deep garnet core with some bricking on the rim. On the nose, it shows exactly the same as before, offering a gorgeous mélange of mulberry, rust, fennel and light garrigue notes, very well defined and even a little rustic in style. The aromatics have aged better than the medium-bodied palate, which presents a fine bead of acidity but exhibits drying tannins and some hardness on the tobacco and hickory finish. Personally, I would broach bottles sooner rather than later, though large formats should still drink well. Tasted from an ex-cellar bottle at the château .
The 1989 Cos d’Estournel is certainly showing more maturity on the rim compared to the 1990. Ten years ago I remember the aromatics being very attractive and yet, they appear to have faded in recent years with autumn leaf, bay leaf and cigar box aromas. The bouquet lacks vigor and charm. The palate is well balanced with gritty tannin, slightly bitter in style and missing the flesh of the 1990, showing some attenuation towards the finish. It is certainly not even in the same league as the 1989 Montrose. I suggest that bottles are best consumed sooner rather than later. Tasted at the Cos d’Estournel vertical at the property.
Wine-searcher.com has no price or stockist for this wine that was shipped straight from the château for this Claret Club dinner at Medlar. This was a high point: sweet, round and gorgeous on the nose then smoky and rich and thoroughly hedonistic on the palate. Gamey but not over the top because there is a massive undertow of concentrated fruit. Sweet finish. (JR)
About the producer
Louis Gaspard d’Estournel inherited Cos and Pomys in 1791, founding Cos d’Estournel in 1811, investing significantly in the property and expanding the estate from 14 to 45 hectares. The estate rapidly rose to prominence and the wines were exported around the world.