2004 CVNE Cune Imperial Reserva

Concentrated, fragrant, red fruit, fine tannin. Pretty structured. Dry, savoury and austere – has some life to give yet. (RH)

The 2004 Imperial Reserva is 85% Tempranillo, 10% Graciano, and 5% Mazuelo aged in new French and American oak for 24 months. Deep crimson-colored, it gives up aromas of toast, spice box, espresso, blackberry, and plum. Medium to full-bodied, on the palate it displays a plush texture, ripe flavors, excellent volume and concentration, and a relatively forward personality. It will be approachable in 2-3 years and will offer prime drinking from 2013 to 2024. Compania Vinicola del Norte de Espana (C.V.N.E.) is known colloquially to most Spanish wine drinkers as Cune. The company was founded in 1879 by the Real de Asua brothers and still remains in the control of their direct descendants. In the 1920s ownership started Vina Real and in 2004 a new winery was built in Laguardia. In 1973 Contino was created to further the concept of the single estate winery and has since been one of the principal leaders in the resurrection of the nearly extinct Graciano grape. The Contino wines are made exclusively from the estate’s 253 acres located in Laserna near the town of Laguardia. The Reserva bottling is the mainstay of the Contino lineup produced from vines ranging in age from 25 to 60 years. The Imperial label is affixed at C.V.N.E. only in the top vintages. The Real De Asul label was created in 1994 to honor the founders of the winery. Importer: Pasternak Wine Imports; www.pasternakwine.com

(85% tempranillo, 10% graciano and 5% mazuelo) Bright ruby color. Exotic, expressive aromas of candied cherry and black raspberry, with deeper licorice and cocoa scents adding a serious aspect. Deep, chewy and attractively sweet, with juicy cherry and dark berry flavors underscored by smoky oak spice. Tannins come up with air, along with a hint of singed plum. Leaves sappy dark berry notes behind on the long, sweet finish.