1998 Mastroberardino Taurasi Radici Riserva
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The 1998 Taurasi Riserva Radici keeps me returning to the glass to take in its remarkably pretty yet earthy bouquet as ash and animal musk give way to worn leather, dried cherries and strawberries. It’s soft and enveloping, boasting a citrusy acid profile that adds contrast, as tart cherry-berry fruits and mineral tones create a crunchy sensation toward the close. This finishes dry and lightly structured, yet it remains fresh, with fine tannins and a sweet and sour hint of spiced tangerine. The 1998 is a mature beauty seated comfortably in its drinking window.
Critic scores
Jancis Robinson MW
Walter Speller, jancisrobinson.com
More reviews and scores
The 1998 Taurasi Radici Riserva is rich, dark, earthy and almost animalistic in nature. There’s an initial blast of dried black cherries and currants before an array of leather, sweet tobacco, animal musk, savory herbs and moist ashen-soil comes forward. While its textures are soft, there’s something decidedly feminine, showing wonderful purity and lift. With further time in the glass, the 1998 gains both in volume and depth, with a sweet and sour feel to the black fruits, savory herbs, hints of dried citrus and mineral tones. Residual tannins mount toward the finale; yet they never get in the way, as hints of olive and a twang of savory spice slowly tapers off. There's a gorgeous purity and inner sweetness to the 1998, which makes it so easy to like. This is a beautiful example of a Taurasi that’s sitting comfortably in its drinking window.
Single vineyard at 600 m elevation. Mid brick-garnet. Some volatile lift, truffle, chocolate, black tea and smoked nuts. Rich palate entry, with some residual, dried red cherry, then balsamic vinegar, spice and black tea, surrounding resolved, firm tannins. Still solidly structured, for its aromatic maturity. (TJ)
Glowing, mid ruby with bricky rim. Beautiful nose of undergrowth, red, sweet fruit and tobacco leaf. Wonderful, supple fruit palate with clinging tannins and perfectly balanced by acidity. Delicious. At its peak now but will hold. (WS)