2003 Château Valandraud

Tasted blind at the Valandraud vertical at the property, the 2003 Valandraud did nothing to dispel my doubts about the longevity of this wine. It is a blend of 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc matured in new oak for 20 months, actually the shortest duration from 2000 to date. It has a light and rather ephemeral bouquet that just seems to drift away in the (non-existent) breeze. Despite coaxing, this offers little compared to the 2002 or 2004 either side. The palate is medium-bodied with a rather chewy, meaty opening. There is dry fruit here that lacks joie-de-vivre, some presence but not life, and it feels bitter on the finish. It is simply a case of the merciless heat of the growing season vanquishing longevity. As such, given how many Valandrauds from mediocre vintages are maturing so well, I would consume bottles in the near future. Tasted December 2016.

Impressive ruby-red color. Lively aromas of violet, mint and licorice, further lifted by a mineral component. Sweet, silky and nicely delineated, with little of the roasted aspect of the year. (The pH is a reasonable 3.7 without acidification, says Jean-Luc Thunevin.) Finishes with lovely sweetness and thickness (the wine is close to 15% alcohol), with a layer of sweet tannins saturating the palate. This would be better for a few years of patience and should last for a couple of decades.