2003 Gaja Langhe Conteisa

Good full red. Sexy, perfumed aromas of mocha, brown spices, minerals and flowers. Suave and silky, with lovely life and definition to the raspberry and spice flavors. This has bright, very well-integrated acidity and a strong tannic spine, giving the long, juicy finish superb grip for the year. Turned more tannic with aeration, but there's enticing invigorating minerality throughout. Another standout for the vintage.

The 2003 Conte isa, from the Cerequio vineyard in La Morra, is especially intense in this vintage. It is a rich, full-bodied Conte isa made in a sweet, super-ripe style, with outstanding palate presence and well-integrated tannins. In 2003 the floral, spices notes that are the hallmark of this vineyard are somewhat attenuated. Still, all things considered, this is a lovely effort.

The 2003 Conteisa, from the Cerequio vineyard in La Morra, is especially intense in this vintage. It is a rich, full-bodied Conteisa made in a sweet, super-ripe style, with outstanding palate presence and well-integrated tannins. In 2003 the floral, spices notes that are the hallmark of this vineyard are somewhat attenuated. Still, all things considered, this is a lovely effort. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2019. Angelo Gaja and long-time oenologist Guido Rivella produced some of the most monumental wines of their long, storied partnership in 2004. Although I admire Gaja’s wines, especially for their consistency, I rarely find them this emotionally moving and utterly profound. The stable weather and cool, tempering evenings towards the end of the growing season allowed Gaja and Rivella to harvest fairly late in 2004. I remember passing by Gaja’s Barbaresco vineyards in October of that year and seeing fruit still waiting to be picked long after most producers had already brought the fruit in. Gaja’s 2004s from Barbaresco are especially breathtaking for their clarity and precision. The wines also seem less internationally-styled than in the past. Readers fortunate enough to possess the means to acquire these wines won’t want to miss them! The 2003s from the Barolo zones of La Morra and Serralunga are also strong efforts considering the vintage. “Historically in Piedmont there has been an inverse relationship between quality and quantity. Great vintages like 1961 and 1989 were characterized by low yields,” says Gaja. “2004 is one of those rare vintages like 1964 and 1990 where quality is high even though yields were generous as well. I think 2004 is a very elegant vintage. It is much easier to achieve opulence in the wines, but finesse is always much more elusive.” Importer: Terlato Wines International, Lake Bluff, IL; tel. (847) 604 8900