1991 Domaine Michel & Stéphane Ogier Côte-Rôtie

I highly touted Ogier's brilliant 1991 Cote Rotie when I tasted it from cask. Now that it has been bottled, it is a sensational Cote Rotie. Ogier's style is one of exceptional elegance married to a velvety-textured, supple, rich fruitiness. His Cote Roties are not as masculine or robust as others, relying more on complexity and finesse. The 1991 displays an ethereal bouquet of ripe cassis, bacon, vanilla, and violets. This deep, medium-weight wine with extraordinary finesse, fragrance, and length on the palate would embarrass many a Musigny from Burgundy. Drink it over the next 10-12 years. Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; Tel. (202) 832-9083

Good deep red-ruby color. Liqueur-like raspberry, exotic Asian spices, violet, meat and maple syrup on the nose. Then pure, strong raspberry fruit in the mouth; densely packed, sweet and sappy. Began quite firm on the finish, but softened as it blossomed in the glass.