2016 Etna Rosso Riserva Rovittello
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Tasting notes
About 90% Nerello Mascalese and 10% Nerello Cappuccio, co-planted in a terraced vineyard located in Contrada Dafara Galluzzo, in the upper area of Rovittello, part of the municipality of Castiglione di Sicilia, on Etna’s northern slope, at 750 m (2,450 ft). Sandy, volcanic soil, rich in minerals. A parcel of pre-phylloxera, ungrafted, head-trained bush vines. Fermented in stainless-steel vat, aged in 15-hl French oak barrels for 24 months. More closed on the nose than the 2016 Serra della Contessa Particella No 587. More dusty on the palate. Like the air in a spice souk. Old flagstones. Fruit edging towards the sun-dried tomato spectrum with a thrum hum of tamarind. Bitterness and bite. Like an old wooden door, slightly ajar, seemingly welcoming you in but ready to close in a breath of air. Grilled orange on the finish. (TC)
Critic scores
Tamlyn Currin, jancisrobinson.com
Eric Guido, Vinous
More reviews and scores
The 2016 Etna Rosso Rovittello Particella No. 341 Riserva opens slowly in the glass, at first backward, dusty and dark, with only nuances of dried roses to be found. Swirling adds further hints of red currant, shaved cedar and sage, yet it doesn’t fully unlock what’s beneath this youthful exterior. It washes across the palate with a more energetic expression; at first, it is silky in feel, yet has a salty mineral core and zesty acids that add grip as potent red berry fruits penetrate deeply. What remains are silty tannins that dry the senses, along with a bitter twang of savory brown spice, as the 2016 finishes with hulking structure and a hint of sour cherry that lingers. Frankly, it’s hard to tell where this is going; so for now, I remain conservative.
About the producer
Benanti is one of the founding fathers of modern-day wine in Sicily, with Giuseppe Benanti an early champion of wines made from the slopes of Mount Etna. Today the property is in the hands of Giuseppe’s children and remains one of the region’s leading names.