2010 Joseph Phelps Eisrebe

(bottled at the end of January; made from scheurebe grapes that were frozen and pressed; 8% alcohol and 23.5% residual sugar; no botrytis): Pale gold. Peach, apricot, orange oil and clove on the come-hither nose. Sweet and concentrated but juicy rather than thick, with bracing acidity (11 grams per liter!) and a saline quality leavening the exotic orange, pineapple and tangy apricot fruit flavors. Slightly high-toned but very pure, penetrating and light on its feet--and long on the aftertaste. A lovely sweet wine.