2009 Thierry Allemand Cornas Les Chaillots

The 2009 Cornas Chaillot is a thrilling effort that does everything right. Inky purple in color and offering up notions of sweet cassis, liquid violets, liquefied herbs, graphite and crushed rock, it flows onto the palate with a supple, full-bodied texture that carries layers of fruit, solid acidity, and sweet, soft, yet not a trivial amount of tannin on the finish. Gorgeous all around and much more approachable than the Reynard, this glorious Cornas will nevertheless delight for upwards of two decades. Thierry Allemand has been working the steep slopes just outside the town of Cornas since 1982, when he planted his own vineyard. Since then, he has slowly added plots, and now has roughly 10 acres under vine, most in prime spots and granite soils. The winemaking here is very traditional, with little destemming and the wines spending up to two years in older barrels and foudre, with little racking, before being bottled unfined and unfiltered. He normally releases two Cornas; the younger vine cuvee, the Chaillot, which comes from vines from 5 to 40 years in age, and the older vine cuvee, the Reynard, which comes from the oldest vines on the estate (34- to 90-year-old vines). Looking at the 2010s, the wines are more fresh, focused and austere than the 2009s, with additional purity and focus.

Bright purple. Bright aromas of red and dark berry preserves, floral oils and minerals, with a strong note of Asian spices. Fresh, vibrant and pure, offering sweet black raspberry and cherry flavors that stain the palate. At once rich and energetic, finishing with outstanding clarity and sappiness.

From Pigeonnier: Bitter cherry and redcurrant on the mineral-accented nose. Fresh and precise, with focused red fruit flavors and subtle floral character. Excellent clarity, thanks to intense minerality. The finish is pure, racy and very long. From Chaillot and Tezier: Deeper and more brooding, with pungent black raspberry and floral qualities and firm minerality. Finishes with solid grip and lingering spiciness.