2020 Masseto

A deep ruby/magenta hue, the 2020 Masseto is a highly compelling wine, offering seductive and seamless aromas of dark chocolate, Marasca cherry liqueur, crushed stones, lavender, sage oil, and vanilla bean. Full-bodied, with fantastic concentration and purity and even more depth and richness, it has plush tannins and fresh acidity that continues to weave through the wine, with notes of espresso crema and salted caramel that accent the palate and an incredibly long and even finish. Comparing it to the 2013, which was tasted alongside, this has more refinement in its texture and is one of the truly spectacular wines from this vintage. Drink 2028-2050. The adjacent sister property to Ornellaia, the Masseto estate in Bolgheri produces benchmark wines based on Merlot, with its first vintage in 1987. As noted in this report’s introduction and in the Ornellaia profile, 2023 saw the departure of long-time winemaker and estate director Axel Heinz. Winemaker Gaia Cinnirella is staying on and shows tremendous promise for the estate. Their new winery, which debuted in 2018, was designed by architects Hikaru Mori and Maurizio Zito of the ZitoMori Studio, who named it “The Quarry.” It’s an impressive design, with the exterior blending into the landscape, only to reveal its true grandeur upon entering the winery beneath. One feature of the new winery has been moving away from using stainless steel, which they found could contribute to reductive qualities. Instead, 20 to 25% of the wine is now fermented in concrete tanks, with the remainder in oak barrels. The concrete also takes on some of the qualities of barrel fermentation, without adding the additional flavors that barrels would contribute. The oldest vines are currently approaching 40 years old, and in newer vintages, Cabernet Franc they planted more recently has been making its way into the wines. My tasting took place at the winery with Gaia Cinnirella.

Merlot plus some Cabernet Franc. Harvest 14–16 September. Spontaneous fermentation with indigenous yeasts at 25–28 °C, with pumping over two or three times a day and délestages where necessary. The total time in tank ranged from 21 to 28 days. Malolactic fermentation in barriques, with 100% new oak, keeping the various batches separate for the first 12 months of ageing. Subsequently, the wines were blended and returned to barriques for another year, totalling 24 months’ oak ageing. After bottling, the wine was aged for a further 12 months before release. Highly concentrated on both the nose and the palate, this is chock-full of opulent black fruit. The tannins are highly polished and allow the fruit to take centre stage. This has a fleshy breadth but equally impressive depth. The wood spice is generous but matched by the fruit. Very seductive but perfectly balanced with bright acids keeping everything in check. (TP)

The 2020 Masseto is superb. Bright and vibrant in the glass, the 2020 offers up an exciting mix of dark-toned fruit, mocha, spice, leather, tobacco, cedar and a kiss of French oak. Lively acids and Franc aromatics lend vibrancy throughout. The Franc is so evident today. This is exceptionally polished and sophisticated, albeit a touch slender relative to most years. In 2020, Masseto is more finesse than power.