2012 Vosne-Romanée Aux Malconsorts 1er Cru
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Tasting notes
The 2012 Vosne-Romanée Aux Malconsorts 1er Cru appears to be enduring an awkward adolescent phase. The aromatics feel a little disjointed, the fruit tucked away somewhere else leaving tealeaf, bay leaf and nagging vegetal notes in its place - atypical for the style of this vintage. Alex Seysses told me that they had some reduction issues with this wine, possibly from the use of SO2 in the vineyard as they converted to organic, that dissipated but then returned. The palate is much better and I suspect augurs for what is to come: filigree tannin, precise, mineral-driven, plenty of fresh and vibrant red fruit with impressive tension and vivacity on the pretty and pure finish. If you own bottles then I recommend cellaring for another three or four years, as I am sure the aromatics will return after this “dumb phase”. Tasted at Flint Wines's Domaine Dujac tasting in London.
Critic scores
Jancis Robinson MW
Julia Harding MW, jancisrobinson.com
More reviews and scores
Relatively light in colour and starting to show a touch of brick red. A hint of smoky reduction, even though it has been carafed, and this reduction emphasises the oak impact a little. This is such a great demonstration of a wine unfurling across the vintages. The balance of red fruit and a more savoury/sous-bois (undergrowth) character starting to change but they are still evenly paced. There’s a real heady sweetness to the aroma, too. The texture still has something to get your teeth into, even with the supple smoothness of the tannins. Still al dente rather than melted. Extremely moreish with more of that savoury mushroom flavour on the very end. You could drink this now but there’s more complexity to come, for sure. Not as long as the 2013, it seems. (JH)
The 2012 Vosne-Romanée Aux Malconsorts is shaping up to be a real beauty. Dark, sensual and expressive, the 2012 is wonderfully open today, which is quite surprising. As always, Malconsorts is defined by a textural feel of nearly indescribable finesse. There is plenty of that in the 2012.
Bright medium red. Captivating floral lift to the aromas of raspberry, minerals and truffle. Dense, sweet and utterly seamless, communicating a powerful impression of truffley soil tones but also plenty of high-pitched floral and mineral perfume. Boasts bulletproof fruit and yet this wine is perfectly harmonious today. The palate-staining finish leaves the taste buds humming. A brilliant example of its vintage.
About the producer
Domaine Dujac is one of Burgundy’s most famous wine estates. It crafts red Burgundies with a distinct style, from a fantastic array of vineyard plots, including seven Grands Crus.