2007 Volnay Clos des Ducs 1er Cru
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Tasting notes
The Clos des Ducs Lutte Raisonnée, made from vines that were treated with phytosanitary products against oidium and mildew in spring: Aromas of strawberry, rose petal, smoke, leather and earth became increasingly perfumed with air. Intensely flavored and fresh; not especially fleshy but really stands out for its inner-mouth perfumed lift and dominant strawberry and raspberry fruit character. Still a touch of leathery reduction throughout, but this wine is elegant and gripping, finishing with slowly rising length and substantial tannins that saturate the roof of the mouth. A separate cuvée, which Angerville called "Biodynamic," also made from the upper part of the Clos des Ducs: Deeper, thicker and richer but more reduced and a bit lower-toned than the Lutte Raisonnée--less fruity and more about soil. Its tannins were also quite strong and building. Though close in quality to the Lutte Raisonnée, it was less fun to drink. The actual commercial release of the 2007 Clos des Ducs: Good medium red. An initial element of reduction dissipated to reveal lovely red fruit and floral perfume. Wonderfully silky and suave on the palate, with ripe raspberry, cherry, strawberry and rose petal flavors framed by ripe acidity (this wine's pH was the highest of all the vintages in the tasting and yet it shows lovely balance). Distinctly elegant, tender, classic Volnay premier cru with great appeal--and better than the two lots made from the top of the clos. Finishes juicy and gripping, with very refined tannins and subtle rising length. An excellent example of its vintage. (13.6% alcohol; September 7 harvest; 37 h/h; 3.84 pH; Angerville presented two components of this wine followed by the actual commercial release):
Critic scores
David Schildknecht, Vinous
Jancis Robinson MW
More reviews and scores
Lutte raisonnée sample (not the final bottling). The cells of this sample looked like scribbles. All ploughed – only sprayed against the two mildews. Transparent ruby. Pretty sumptuous, open nose. Very powerful and open wine that is already drinking well. Some chewiness. And a tiny bit of alcohol. But definitely more muted and bureaucratic (form-filling) than the biodynamic version . (JR)
The 2007 Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Ducs, which was tasted from a magnum directly from their cellars, has a beautiful bouquet with red plum, blueberry and an intriguing subtle vein of wild mint. This is a complex bouquet with hint of black tea and bay leaf surfacing with time. The palate is medium-bodied with filigree tannin, very harmonious and focused, demonstrating more grace and precision than the 2007 Volnay Champan tasted alongside. Then on the finish there is a cheeky touch of sour cherry that seems to cleanse the palate and urges you to take another sip.
Mid ruby. Delicate and peppery on the nose with a sort of biscuity sweetness that is probably the oak influence. Refined and very silky but still with some red fruits in the mix. (JH)
About the producer
Marquis d'Angerville is synonymous with the village of Volnay, having long made some of the village’s finest wines. Best known for its Premier Cru monopole vineyard, Clos des Ducs, this estate crafts fine-boned, elegant styles of Pinot Noir – wines that act as standard-bearers for the appellation.