2006 F.X. Pichler Riesling Durnsteiner Hollerin Smaragd

Lucas Pichler opines, is the tendency for wines to strongly reflect their site, and his 2006 Riesling Smaragd Hollerin with its insistent aromas and flavors of bitter-sweet black fruits is certainly another confirmation of this opinion. Wearing its extract on its sleeve, this rich, dense Riesling comes up slightly bitter and warm – albeit with strong suggestions of minerality – in the back. Given the performance of this year’s rendition at Prager, I was tempted to ascribe some of the wine’s awkwardness to the way in which this site ripened in 2006, although Pichler points out that their parcel is from the steep, granite upper tier of Hollerin and quite distinct from Bodenstein’s section. Encouraged by the healthy ripeness of the crop, Lucas and F. X. Pichler let a significant percentage of their wines ferment spontaneously this year. They managed to turn out a trio of wines with true Federspiel character that combine ripe flavors with interplay and elegance at 12.5% alcohol. What’s more, they were able to harvest these in the first week of October, a tribute to the outstanding vine selections and impeccable vineyard work that characterize this estate. Importer: Weygandt-Metzler Importing (www.weygandtmetzler.com), Unionville, PA; tel. 610-486-0800