2004 Billecart-Salmon Extra Vintage Brut
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Tasting notes
Billecart’s 2004 Extra Brut – on whose labels, incidentally, that designation of dryness only appears in tiny print – opens with intimations of the fresh lemon and crabapple that then dominate a lively and invigorating palate. Hints of yeast and baked goods in the nose anticipate the subtle creaminess of texture achieved inner-mouth even with such liveliness and cut as otherwise characterizes this cuvee. Chalk and crushed stone impressions lend a touch of austerity to a penetratingly bright but otherwise understated finish. This rarified bottling may well take on more richness and complexity with a couple of years of bottle age and will probably be worth following for at least half a dozen. Billecart puts great stock by age-worthiness post- (as well as, of course, prior to) disgorgement. Owners of around 35 vineyard acres in three Champagne sub-regions, Billecart-Salmon holds rental contracts on more than three times that acreage and purchasing contracts cover twice-again that much, all grist for the mills that are their four press houses. Director Antoine Roland-Billecart and cellarmaster Francois Domi favor techniques designed to emphasize purity, polish, levity and acid-retention (although some lots are permitted to undergo malo-lactic transformation), and the effects of such an approach were very evident in the two recent vintage-dated releases that I tasted this autumn. Importer: T. Edward Wines, New York, NY; (212) 233-1504
Critic scores
David Schildknecht, Vinous
Antonio Galloni, Vinous
More reviews and scores
(L43409705044M): Light, bright gold. Mineral-accented aromas of orange, white flowers, ginger and white pepper, with a leesy overtone. Juicy, penetrating orchard fruit and orange zest flavors gain flesh and and spiciness with air. Packs a solid punch but carries no excess weight and finishes with impressive clarity and chalky, mineral-driven persistence. I'd give this youthful Champagne a few years to unwind.
The 2004 Brut Vintage is 70% Pinot Noir and 30% Chardonnay, partially fermented in barrel (20%) and bottled with no dosage. The wine reveals excellent up-front intensity in its ripe yellow fruit and broad-shouldered frame but then falls a bit short on the mid-palate. Compared to the finest wines here, the 2004 Brut Vintage offers a two, rather than three-dimensional sense of aromatic and flavor complexity. This is Lot L 556997 32009J.
The 2004 Brut Vintage is 70% Pinot Noir and 30% Chardonnay, partially fermented in barrel (20%) and bottled with no dosage. The wine reveals excellent up-front intensity in its ripe yellow fruit and broad-shouldered frame but then falls a bit short on the mid-palate. Compared to the finest wines here, the 2004 Brut Vintage offers a two, rather than three-dimensional sense of aromatic and flavor complexity. This is Lot: L 556997 32009J. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2016. The Billecart-Salmon house style is defined by class, elegance, and a sublime freshness to the wines. Long fermentations at cold temperatures with no malolactic fermentation are the rule at this small, family-owned property in Mareuil-sur-Ay. I also had a chance to re-taste the 2000 Brut Cuvee Elisabeth Salmon 2000 Brut Cuvee Nicolas Francois Billecart (reviewed last year). Both wines showed beautifully. Readers will find updated notes on www.erobertparker.com. Importer: Robert Chadderdon Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 332-4999
About the producer
Founded in 1818, Billecart-Salmon is one of the region's oldest continuously family-owned Champagne houses and has a fine reputation for crafting exceptionally elegant and pure Champagne wines.