2018 Taaibosch Crescendo

A blend of 65% Cabernet Franc, 30% Merlot and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon, the 2018 Crescendo Red Blend begins with notions of red bell pepper, blackcurrant bud and wild cherry skin. Medium to full-bodied, the palate is fresh, ripe and herbaceous, with notes of cedar and cigar spice and an herbaceous, red-fruited finish. The wine rested for 13 months in 30% new French oak barrels. For those who enjoy Cabernet Franc and are not afraid of the green pepper notes, you'll enjoy this expression. Give it a try.

Fast-forward a few years to 2017, and new owners, the Oddo family, proprietors of vineyards in Sancerre and Sicily, bought the estate and renamed it after a species of indigenous fynbos: Taaibosch. The vines are now 21-years-old and organically farmed on Table Mountain sandstone soil over granite. Schalk-Willam Joubet, winemaker of “Rupert & Rothschild” was appointed to oversee the resurrected wine, and the maiden 2018 was released earlier this year. It is a blend of 60% Cabernet Franc, 24% Merlot and 16% Cabernet Sauvignon, matured in a combination of 225-litre oak barrels (one-third new) plus 9,000-liter foudres and cement vats for 36 months. The nose expresses the Cabernet Franc with style, predominantly black fruit, intermingling with lavender, leather and crushed violets emanating from the Cabernet. The palate is very well balanced with quite a plush texture and a finish inspired by the Right Bank, though it is unmistakably from the Cape. It was difficult to resist another sip, an exemplar for the new-style of more restrained, terroir-driven Stellenbosch wines. Think what Figeac might taste like if it suddenly woke up and found itself in Stellenbosch. Be quick to grab the 2018 as it is sold out in many places, though the 2019 will be released imminently.

Direct, dramatically attention-grabbing nose with very ripe fruit and some oak. Fleshier than some SA reds. But just a little dry and stringy on the end. (JR)