2011 Domaine Raveneau Chablis

The Raveneau 2011 Chablis – bottled early this year – features juicy lime and white currant for a piquant and tart impression wreathed in musky floral perfume and infused with chalk dust and saliva-liberating shrimp shell reduction. This conveys delicacy and lift as well as persistent refreshment, one of hearteningly numerous examples (if – at least in U.S. retail terms – by far the most expensive) of the degree to which the right combination of site, vines and grower can transcend the modest expectations misleadingly conveyed by the terms “generic,” “simple,” or “village-level” as applied to a Chablis. Plan to savor this through 2016. There is something disconcerting about stepping from their old cellar into the vaulted, spare stone and concrete expanse that now houses most of Bernard and Isabelle Raveneau’s barrels, but I have no doubt that the spaciousness of this new arrangement will have its subtle, positive influence on quality at what many would peg as the foremost estate in Chablis. And while I try to refrain from mentioning coopers by name (and in all but rare instances – with French tonneliers, anyway – succeed), I would simply point out that a comparison of the older and more recent barrels at this estate encourages me in the belief that changes taking place in that department, too, will only enhance quality. Bernard Raveneau describes 2012 as affording “lovely acidity and equilibrium,” and I do not doubt that its fruits at this address will uphold a reputation for improving in bottle and avoiding the premature oxidation that confounds wine lovers’ hopes for even some renowned and youthfully impressive Chablis. (Since it applies to all of my reviews of Raveneau’s 2012s, I suggest consulting my explanation in the introduction to this report of just how I utilize “+?” in rating wines before bottling.) Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524

(bottled in February of this year): Bright pale yellow. Lemon, orange and a note of pepper on the expressive nose. Supple, easygoing and open-knit, with an attractive white peach flavor dominating. Not quite as precise or gripping as the 2012 version but nicely fresh and attractive already.

The 2011 Chablis is a gorgeous wine of nearly indescribable beauty. It boasts striking, nuanced aromatics and beautiful fruit. In a word, this is a fabulous showing from one of the most inspired producers in the village. This is easily the best straight Chablis of the year.