2018 Château Les Carmes Haut-Brion

The 2018 Les Carmes Haut-Brion was aged in 75% new oak with a touch more matured in foudres . It includes 55% whole bunches. This has a slight confit-like aroma on the nose, plush cranberry and wild strawberry intermingling with cassis and violet; aromatically, this is the more precocious recent vintage. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy red fruit, fine tannins, clean and pure with excellent acidity keeping everything on an even keel towards the finish. The 2018 has a caressing texture and is very persistent. I might quibble and say that I just find the nose a little trop, but the palate is superb. Tasted at the Les Carmes Haut-Brion vertical at the château.

37% Cabernet Franc, 34% Cabernet Sauvignon, 29% Merlot. 60% whole-bunch vinification. Aged 24 months in new oak barrel (80%), foudre (10%) and amphora (10%) Deep crimson hue. Lovely lift to the nose with an almost burgundian red-berry nuance. Palate rich and suave but fresh as well. Big tannic base so plenty of potential. Oak fully integrated. Long, clean finish. Has the solar nuance of the vintage but elegance and complexity as well. (JL)

This powerful, full of complex layers of raspberry, blackberry, smoked earth, rosemary and turmeric spice, but running underneath it all is clear salinity and grip. The personality and poise of this wine overtakes the vintage, not an easy thing to do in a year that is as powerful as 2018 and on a warm site such as Carmes Haut-Brion. Touches of saffron and salt-licked as it opens, sage, freshly grilled dried herbs and gourmet espresso and brioche. Enjoyable. 3.62pH, and harvest at almost 1% ABV higher than you find in the final bottle. Ageing takes place in a mix of 25% new oak, 5% oak casks, and 10% amphoras, with 55% stems during fermentation, and natural yeasts.