1994 Château Pavie-Macquin

Superbly aromatic, with violets, berries and toasted oak character. Medium-bodied, with sleek tannins and a long, fruity finish. A racy and exciting wine from a property on the rise in St.-Emilion. Drinkable now, better in 1999. James Suckling, Wine Spectator 1997

This well-situated estate, with a high percentage of old vines and uncompromising biodynamic viticultural practices, represents a wine that could be called the Chateau Lafleur of St.-Emilion. These are powerful, backward, tannic wines that should be purchased by those with the discipline, patience, and the requisite youthfulness to wait 10-12 years for them to round into shape. Because of their severity, these wines can be admired more than enjoyed, but their impressive old vine core of fruit, and extraordinary purity and ripeness are noteworthy. The dark ruby-colored 1994 reveals a Musigny-like nose of violets, black-cherries, and powdered stone. This tough-textured, tannic, muscular wine exudes personality and character, but it needs 6-8 years of cellaring. It may turn out to be an outstanding wine, but since bottling, the wine has become dominated by its structure and tannin, and is less of a sure thing than I thought last year. While it possesses plenty of personality and richness, it is questionable as to whether this wine will evolve gracefully, or eventually dry out. A tough call. Anticipated maturity: 2005-2020. Feb 1997, www.robertparker.com

Black-ruby color. Superripe, highly perfumed aromas of crushed raspberries and pungent oak. Wonderful inner-mouth flavor, and quite fresh for the year, but there's not quite the fat of the '95. Here the substantial tannins are a bit more present. Not as seamless as the '95, but this is impressive juice. Very concentrated and very long.