2010 Kistler Chardonnay Sonoma Valley

Bright, green-tinged gold. Seductive, highly perfumed aromas of dried pear, lemon pith and white flowers, with iodine and honey nuances adding depth. Smooth and broad on entry, then brighter in the mid-palate, offering vibrant, mineral-accented orchard fruit and bitter citrus flavors and a note of sweet butter. Finishes sappy and extremely long, with resonating mineral and spice notes. Great energy and power.

The 2010 Chardonnay Kistler Vineyard is one of the most reticent wines in this range. Hints of butter, passion fruit and French oak emerge over time, but the 2010 remains difficult to assess as the structural elements currently dominate. There is a lot going on in the glass, though. This is one of the few 2010s that could benefit from another 6-12 months in bottle, as the elements aren’t quite in place yet. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2018. It is always a pleasure to visit with Steve Kistler and his partner Mark Bixler. The 2011s and 2010s are excellent across the board, although I currently have a preference for the 2011s. Vintage 2011 is shaping up beautifully, for both the Chardonnays and Pinots. As was the case throughout the region, the season was cool and slow to develop. The 2011s were picked at lower sugars than is the norm here, but very much in keeping with the personality of the year. Steve Kistler commented that a poor set in 2011 resulted in their lowest crop loads in years. Like a lot of his colleagues, Kistler noted that the experiences of 2010 had a huge positive impact on how he responded to similar challenges in 2011. The 2010 Chardonnays are beautiful across the board. Although solid, the 2010 Pinots aren’t quite at the level of the superb 2009s and I expect, ultimately, the 2011s. It was a tough vintage for the Pinots. Yields were mercilessly low. Sadly, there is no Cuvee Elizabeth, as the little fruit that came in went into the Kistler Vineyard bottling. Tel. (707) 823-5603