1945 Taylor Fladgate Vintage Port

Taylor's 1945 Fladgate Vintage Port has a deeper color than the '45 Graham. The aromatics are detailed with remnants of red fruit, wild mint, Cuban cigars and pencil box that seem to flourish with aeration, gaining more intensity with each swirl of the glass. The palate is exquisitely balanced and poised with perfect acidity. It does not quite possess the "Doric" pillars of the stentorian '48 Taylor's, but you could argue that this might offer more subtlety and finesse. Hints of raspberry, cedar, marjoram and maraschino cherries that remain quite linear and correct. This is a "serious" Port in keeping with the style of Taylor's, a Port that demands your respect. Perhaps the '45 Graham has more personality but the '45 Taylor's has the gravitas. Tasted May 2015.

From an unlabelled bottle brought a few years ago by a dinner guest with a handwritten hanging neck label that says 'Taylor, 1970?'. Imagine our surprise when we pulled the cork! Pale to mid tawny with a rose red core. Very heady and floral (violets?), then brûlée. Very lifted rather than heavy. The last time I tasted this was at the British embassy in Paris in 1995 at a special dinner to celebrate the 50th anniversary of the armistice. Alastair Robertson was on my left. Unctuous in the extreme. This is the stage one hopes for when tasting young vintage port – so mellow yet so well balanced. No suggestion of over-insistent spirit. Creamy texture and a suggestion of russet apples. Spicy finish with lots of power in it. So long. You really wouldn't need anything with this though I am looking forward to the mature brebis cheese we'll nibble at with this at the end of dinner tonight. (JR)

Nearly as sublime as the '48, this is a majestic wine in its own right, with a superb concentration of fruit and a firm structure. Deep, dark ruby with a garnet edge, ripe raisin, almond and cedar aromas, full-bodied, with masses of ripe grape and almond flavors and medium tannins that tickle your palate on the finish. Built to age for centuries but amazing to drink now. James Suckling, WineSpectator.com