2016 Penfolds Grange Hermitage

Deep, shimmering violet. Expansive, smoke- and spice-accented aromas of cherry liqueur, cassis, coconut and pungent flowers show excellent clarity. Stains the palate with concentrated dark fruit and violet pastille flavors that are complemented by suggestions of mocha, smoked meat and exotic spices. Distinctly generous in character, but there's also superb energy thanks to a core of juicy acidity. Sweet dark fruit and candied violet notes drive the finish, which features steadily building tannins and shows remarkable tenacity.

A blend of 97% shiraz and 3% cabernet sauvignon from Barossa, McLaren Vale, Clare Valley and Magill Estate. This is a very intense Grange with such rich black-fruit, tar and coal-smoke aromas together with iodine and black-olive notes and an array of wild dark herbs. Almost impenetrable dark plums and licorice, as well as bacon fat. The palate has such seamless delivery of intense blackberry and plum flavors with some redder tones emerging, too. The power here is countered by such freshness and an almost elegant feel. This has such impressive, vibrant, long and seamless fruit power. Really is exceptionally complete, but tight, needs time to open. Very enjoyable now, but better after 2023.

So much going on in the glass; it’s a tempestuous opera with a big cast. On the nose, there’s high lift from a big, generous swirl of fruity aromas that carry a hint of fermented fig among the blackberry, dark plum and aniseed. Investigate further on the palate and there’s a lot going on within its dense hedge of dark berries and secondary flavours of mocha and liquorice. Ultimately, it’s the heavy black notes that win out and persist, but there is so much to ponder, even after the event has concluded. A Grange worth mulling over.