1996 Château Ducru-Beaucaillou
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Tasting notes
One of the great old school vintages of late 20th century Bordeaux, underestimated at the time because its tannic heft kept everything closed for a good decade or more. We are joining it now, at 27 years old, as everything is just smoothing out, the tannins still present but welcoming and supple, holding on to cassis, bilberry, black cherry, sage, white truffle, cloves, star anise, charcoal and mint that captures the essence of the vintage in St Julien. It was also a moment in the Médoc when there was a profound shift from the traditional way of winemaking, and here at Ducru there was a new winery that had been in place since 1995, and Eric Boissenot was just joining the consulting team, working alongside his father Jacques.
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Wine Spectator
Robert Parker
More reviews and scores
The 1996 Ducru-Beaucaillou is a vintage that I have not tasted for a number of years. Matured in two-thirds new oak, it has an open and expressive bouquet, a mixture of red and black fruit, estuarine scents, touches of liquorice emerging with time. It is higher-toned than the 1995 with iodine evolving with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with succulent tannins, fresh acidity, quite sweet in the mouth and maybe like the 1995, just missing that complexity and terroir expression that I think has defined recent vintages from this estate. Maybe it is slightly compromised by some Merlot (25%) that was picked a but later, but still, there is a lot of pleasure to be found in this 1996. Tasted at the Ducru Beaucaillou vertical at the château. (NM)
75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot. 66% new French oak. Sunny, dry September led to late, rapid ripening. Deep blackish garnet. Quite a powerful nose – lots of beef and muscle but not yet settled down. Tannins and acidity in evidence. Not a charmer – bit of a boxer but it is certainly concentrated and many other tasters were impressed by it. Clean and fresh but it definitely needs food! Drying finish. Not my style of claret at the moment but it will still be going strong in 10 years’ time. Slightly old-fashioned? (JR)
About the producer
Second Growth estate Ch. Ducru-Beaucaillou in Saint-Julien is one of the Super Seconds, an elite group of properties producing wines that regularly compete with the finest in the Médoc.