1985 Château Ducru-Beaucaillou

The 1985 Ducru-Beaucaillou is a vintage that I have not encountered for many years. It marked the start of a troubled period for the estate, and the wine feels neutered on the nose with light black cherries, lavender perhaps, but there is a lack of vigour and sense of purpose. The palate is medium-bodied with a slightly sour entry, fine acidity, quite compact with a ferrous, smoky and slightly drying finish. Drink in the near future. Tasted at the Ducru Beaucaillou vertical at the château.

Proprietor Bruno Borie mentioned that this was a late vintage. They started to pick on 30th September, finishing on 11th October. He didn't have exact grape percentages for this year, but he thinks it is probably 70% Cabernet Sauvignon and 30% Merlot. Pale to medium brick-brown colored, the 1985 Ducru-Beaucaillou slowly unfurls to reveal notes of Christmas pudding, dried cranberries and bouquet garni with nuances of cast iron pan, dusty soil and woodsmoke. Medium-bodied, the palate has a firm, chewy backbone and oodles of freshness with a core of dried herbs and stewed tea and a slightly rustic finish.

Tasted from magnum. Mature and elegant, with a nice band of cedar, tar, currant and tobacco flavors, but the finish lacks richness and concentration, turning earthy with a drying aftertaste.--Cabernet Challenge. Drink now.-James Suckling, Wine Spectator 1996