2006 Chardonnay Lauren

The 2006 Chardonnay Lauren Vineyard is a brilliant effort. One has to admire Aubert’s ability to turn out something of this majesty in such a challenging year when so many Chardonnay and Pinot Noir vineyards were filled with botrytis. Lemon blossom, orange marmalade, and white currant aromas jump from the glass of this light straw-colored cuvee with a greenish hue (a characteristic that also appears in the Aubert 2007s). Beautiful notes of tropical fruits and crushed rocks are present in this gorgeously rich, full-bodied, well-focused Chardonnay. All the Aubert Chardonnays offer abundant power, vivid acidity, and dramatic, laser-like focus. It is hard to find better Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs than those created by Mark Aubert under his Aubert label. Aubert’s resume is outstanding, having previously worked under Helen Turley. He also served as chief winemaker at Peter Michael as well as at Colgin, making Bordeaux blends and Syrah. In addition to producing his own wines, he is currently the winemaker at Bryant Family Vineyards. Aubert’s extraordinary Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs are fashioned from cool climate sites on the Sonoma Coast. In 2006, he only produced two Chardonnays because of botrytis in the vineyards. Employing a ruthless selection process, he had the courage to totally declassify vineyards with which he was not happy. There are two Aubert Pinot Noirs produced, one from the Reuling Vineyard that represents a 50-50 blend of the so-called Calera Clone and a clone from the most famous vineyard in Vosne-Romanee (legal issues prevent anyone from naming this grand cru vineyard). The other Pinot Noir comes from the UV Vineyard, named after the brilliant viticulture manager, Ulises Valdez. In spite of Aubert’s brilliance with Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, he has not yet hit a home run with his Bordeaux blends from David Abreu’s vineyard on Howell Mountain. Tel. (707) 942-5611; Fax (707) 942-1573. Note: Prices are 2 to 3 times higher in the secondary market than the winery’s retail.

Palish green-yellow. Intriguing aromas of white peach, green tea, pear, nectarine, spices and minerals. Dense and powerful, but the flavors of nectarine and minerals are kept fresh by a green-appley acidity and a minty nuance. I find this stony, flinty wine a bit youthfully musclebound today. The slightly dry-edged finish features good spicy lift and a suggestion of butterscotch.