2010 Gary's Vineyard Pinot Noir

The 2010 Pinot Noir Garys' Vineyard has tremendous lift and aromatic complexity, much of which comes from the inclusion of 20% whole clusters. Freshly cut flowers, spices, mint and anise waft from the glass supported by insistent layers of underlying minerality. There is a tension and pure energy to the Garys- that is exciting and compelling. A portion of the fruit was fermented in open top wood vats, an approach that seems to work beautifully. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2018. Kosta-Browne is one of those places that always seems to be buzzing with a positive vibe that is hard to fully describe, but that I am sure informs these exuberant, deeply expressive wines. I arrived for my tasting as the winery was completing their move to new, spacious digs at The Barlow, a large facility food/wine industrial park facility in Sebastopol that also houses Pax Mahle's winery plus a number of restaurants, markets, cheese shops, coffee houses and sellers of other local food specialties that will move in shortly. The Barlow is still undergoing its build out, but it will be very interesting to see how the project develops in the coming years. As for the Pinots that have made K-B so famous, the wines keep getting better and more refined with each passing vintage. One big development is the acquisition of Gaps Crown by investor Bill Price, who is also an owner of Kosta-Browne, which means that Gaps Crown now becomes essentially an estate vineyard, although I am told contracts with other growers who purchase fruit will remain in place. It-s all part of the constant energy that seems to be an essential part of K-B-s DNA. Tel. (707) 823-7430

Bright ruby. Exotic scents of red and dark berry liqueur, potpourri, vanilla and blood orange. Spicy, penetrating black raspberry and bitter cherry flavors stain the palate, turning sweeter with air. This rich, lively pinot finishes with superb clarity and length and alluring spiciness.