1996 Le Pergole Torte Riserva

The 1996 Le Pergole Torte, from a cold, late-ripening vintage, is powerful and explosive, with a compelling interplay of ripeness, sweetness and structure. Cherry jam, wild flowers, mint, sweet spices, menthol and licorice meld together in the glass, while lavender, rose petal, quinine and a host of aromatic notes come alive on the finish. Although striking today, the 1996 will drink well for another 10-15 years, perhaps longer. Today, it is truly special. In 1996, the harvest began on October 21, exceedingly late, even for Montevertine. (AG)

The 1996 Le Pergole Torte is frankly hard to taste after the first four wines in this vertical. Today it is impossibly young. Firm tannins, beautifully delineated aromatics and refined layers of fruit are all present in the 1996, but the wine needs time. It is another classic, cool-vintage wine from Montevertine. There is considerable freshness and energy in the 1996, but this will always be a relatively linear Pergole Torte.

I started off loving the 1996 Le Pergole Torte, but I ended my evaluation on a less enthusiastic note. The bouquet opens slowly with dark fruit tones and spicy notes of cinnamon and clove. Dusty mineral tones also appear as subtle accents with licorice and balsam herb. Its aromatic presentation is less yielding and fluid overall. The wine offers complexity and depth, but in a more monolithic and one-directional manner. There is little polarity here. The wine ends on a sweetly pungent note with candied fruit, canned peach and honey. It finishes on a heavy note. Mar 2018, www.robertparker.com