2022 Grolleau
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Tasting notes
Full bottle 1,348 g. 100% Grolleau from 100-year-old vines. Hand-picked. De-stemmed, native yeast, 30-day maceration without extraction. Gentle cap punching, limited pumping over, infusion techniques. 30% of the wine spends 14 months on fine lees in 228-litre burgundy casks (used five to seven times) and the rest is 14 months in new oak barrels. Six months in stainless steel. Bottled without filtration or fining on a ‘fruit day’. Certified organic (Ecocert) and biodynamic (Biodyvin, Demeter). Wild and more than a little gamey with a tumble of tannins and acidity that feels like I’m rolling granite stones in my mouth. I’m sure I can taste blood, or at least rust and iodine. The tannins are ribbons, a little ripped and frayed, burlap and silk. Drink with dried sausage and black olives in thyme and olive oil. (TC)
Critic scores
Tamlyn Currin, jancisrobinson.com