2017 Etna Rosso Riserva Rovittello
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Tasting notes
Roughly 90% Nerello Mascalese and 10% Nerello Cappuccio, co-planted in a terraced vineyard located in Contrada Dafara Galluzzo, in the upper area of Rovittello, part of the municipality of Castiglione di Sicilia, on Etna’s northern slope, at 750 m (2,450 ft). Sandy, volcanic soil, rich in minerals. A parcel of pre-phylloxera, ungrafted, head-trained bush vines. Fermented in stainless-steel vat, aged in 15-hl French oak barrels for 24 months. So much more tannic than the Serra della Contessa Perticella No 587! Much more clenched and taut and nervous. This is held to the point of snapping. Iron and petrichor and rain on hot rocks. But also more floral notes. Blood orange, neroli, orange blossom, dark-red rose. Feels like a storm wind – there really is a drumbeat and an urgency and a tension, a sense of waiting for something, uncertainty and power. Stunning, edgy, demanding. (TC)
Critic scores
Tamlyn Currin, jancisrobinson.com
Eric Guido, Vinous
More reviews and scores
The 2017 Etna Rosso Riserva Rovittello Particella No. 341 blossoms in the glass with a remarkably pretty blend of roses, lilac and violets before giving way to dried strawberries and sweet smoke. This is surprisingly round and juicy up front, propelled by vibrant acidity, with crisp red and blueberry fruits that cascade across its stern mineral core. A tinge of sour citrus comes together with lavender and tart blackberries as the 2017 finishes lightly structured and refined. While this rendition of the Rovittello Riserva may drink a little younger than past vintages, it is a truly lovely wine with the balance for a long and steady evolution.
About the producer
Benanti is one of the founding fathers of modern-day wine in Sicily, with Giuseppe Benanti an early champion of wines made from the slopes of Mount Etna. Today the property is in the hands of Giuseppe’s children and remains one of the region’s leading names.