2022 Kameraderie Paarl Chenin Blanc

Waxy nose with honey and green apple: textbook Chenin. No discernible sweetness, and the precise acidic freshness leaves the finish appetisingly dry. No discernible oak, either – just a classic expression of this variety, with good refreshing balance and typical waxy persistence. (RH)

Two-thirds of the Chenin comes from a vineyard planted in 1966 and one-third from a vineyard planted in 1978, 3 km away. Both on decomposed granite, unirrigated bush vines. 70% is vinified in concrete eggs and the rest in 500-litre French oak barrels. Smells weirdly like Furmint! Dramatically savoury with sake-like notes, marigold, sweet butter, braised fennel root. Quizzically unusual. A crescendo of flavour building into golden richness, golden figs. Such tension that it felt like it was sending an electric current down my spine. And then a pause, a heartbeat, and the wine narrows into a cool, linear, almost rectangular length – that goes on and on and on. And then a parting flurry of flowers and lemongrass. Stunning. This guy knows how to find the soul of vineyards. (TC)