1988 Salon S
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Tasting notes
On opening, the 1988 Champagne Salon pours a deep golden color with a lightly hazy appearance. The nose reveals notes of praline, dried apricot, saline broth, orange rind, and dried porcini. The palate is full-bodied, with broader shoulders, but it comes into focus on the finish and has a surprisingly refreshing mousse that doesn’t dissipate. This bottle was fully mature and past its prime, but it was certainly a pleasure to visit. Drink now.
Critic scores
Richard Hemming MW, jancisrobinson.com
Julia Harding MW, jancisrobinson.com
More reviews and scores
After the lackluster 1990, things get back on track quickly with the 1988 Salon, a wine that is absolutely peaking today. From one of the all-time great vintages in Champagne the 1988 Salon exudes power and explosive intensity, with superb balance and pulsating acidity that gives the wine its drive. A host of candied lemon peel, hazelnut, smoke, licorice and anise overtones meld into the super-expressive finish. Disgorged à la volée , with no dosage.
Disgorged 2010 with 5-6 g/l dosage. Pale gold. Very hard to describe this aroma. A little honeyed and bready but also with a more oxidative butterscotch quality without the sweetness that suggests. So vibrant on the palate, a little hint of ginger and bitter orange. Fabulous balance between intense and refined purity and then that depth and length, very very long. (JH)
Sadly, the 1988 Salon doesn’t live up to expectations. Now fully mature, the 1988 needs to be enjoyed sooner rather than later. This is my second similar experience with the 1988.
About the producer
Champagne Salon makes some of the region’s rarest and most collectable Champagnes. The house is dedicated to one wine – a vintage Blanc de Blancs, 100% Chardonnay entirely from the Grand Cru village of Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, produced only in the finest years.